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Dear Gastroillogica, I found your article provocative. Concerning pairing, in France I don't have that experience of encountering that many restaurants which push pairing. Eventually I will ask for recommendations in a very fine restaurant, but this is because I assume (and hope) the sommelier's taste buds are better trained at that level. So it isn't really an issue in my view here. Is it that ubiquitous where you live (Portugal?).

I agree entirely with the notion that we have a contemporary issue with the definition of Gastronomy. It has been taken over by the chefs and instagramers (I still have to get to your other articls). Pleasure in full consciousness, à propos menus with concerted pairing, long conversations, that is a better part of gastronomy which needs to come back in the limelight.

However, you conclude that the paying customer should be honored. But I think the customer is the issue. He has become passive and isn't playing his role in the overall play.

I spent three and a half hours in a very fine restaurant recently. The more refined facet of my hedonism was uplifted. I want all types of hedonism. But if the customer is to come back at the center, then she has got to play the role as a true gastronomer. And that needs training!

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Dear Philippe, thank you for having taken the time to read, and write. This, after all, it is a dialogue. I think chef's menus are ubiquitous everywhere, and are becoming even more so. Last time I was in Paris I went to Arpége, Shabour and La Meurice and all three had tasting menu on offer, almost exclusively. Maybe lesser-starred restaurants try another way, but the Michelin stardom is heading towards menus tout-court I am afraid, for a series of reasons (your message mad emo think, and I will write soon about this). I agree with you on the passivity of the customer. And I say more! A customer like (let's say) the Olney-Fisher-Child group were more interested in the company at the table than in scrutinising and studying every plate. Maybe we customers are wrong, and should step back and reclaim the need and will to eat, first and foremost, for the pleasure of it. Not for a couple of likes on Instagram, and some half-assed "review" applauded by a handful of followers.

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I'm more than honoured if you consider me your "involuntary mentor" altough I don't know exactly why :-) Anyway, thank you very much for this unexpected and absolutely honour, Sara. Just let me say that you do not need no mentor in any case and just keep rocking!

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That’s why you are my involuntary AND also ...recalcitrant mentor! Your words inspire us all barbarians, as usual. And thank you. Very very much 😊

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Wherever you’re in Barcelona you are invited for diner to my favourite place in town😘

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