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loved this. I might be *that* person saying this, but cutting costs and simplifying service are the two main problems of every kitchen - ultimately all kitchens have the same problems, but starred ones need even more prep, staff, and organization. I run a small kitchen alone and I manage to serve a choice of 7-8 very simple tapas and 2 desserts. A high level restaurant needs a staff of 5-6 just to cover the basics and sometimes the fixed menu is literally the only thing you have the time, space and means to serve.

Sure there's ego, but I am willing to bet the problem is still a practical one: when the line is all busy preparing the menu at the same time, and then you get the random à-la-carte order, you can be sure that in the kitchen volano le madonne.

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Hahaha that is for sure - having to juggle both à la carte and a long, multi step and often complex “chefs menu” service sounds the exact opposite of idyllic.

What I do not get is why don’t more chefs opt for what you are doing: a small selection of plates - that can even rotate or change based on market and products. 5-7 options would make most people happy. And returning: if there’s only a chefs menu available, I’m less likely to return quickly.

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Honestly I think that the small plate formula works wonderfully, both for the people in the kitchen and for customers who get to have a choice. One of the answers to your question is that people EXPECT menus, also depending on where you are in the world. When I was doing seafood in Italy I worked in seaside enoteca and we had a choice of 8 small plates, people saw the point of it. Here in France I've heard many people say 'oh but you guys only do tapas...?' as if it wasn't real food. Then people come and love that they have a choice. I love menus like Ducksoup's, for example.

What you have to do when you have small plates is still offer a 'menu' formula, like get 3 and you get a little discount while still having the impression of getting a menu. But yeah I think it also depends on the country!

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The “tapas” concept is absolutely my favorite - and it’s being used to make “small plates to share” whilst in reality, it’s a delight to be able to work with a fresh idea every time the market changes according to the season.

A big, long, extenuating menu is a way to tell a story - but in most cases, chefs should acknowledge that not every meal is a story in itself, and sometimes we go eating out to live our own stories - not to be imposed someone else’s narrative :)

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Infomative

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Sep 4·edited Sep 4Liked by Gastroillogica

I liked your comparison with certain chefs and Ronaldo. Then this atrocious video came back into my mind from a long time ago and I connected it with your feminism. Among other things, it's the way he ignores her like she's a piece of furniture...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohZKZ2B38QQ

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Thank you! I cringed a lot with seeing that video. Indeed, not one of the good ones.

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